PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMONE HILLIARD
Freshness, freshness, freshness.
Ondine is one classy number. It’s like the Little Black Dress of restaurants; simple, stylish and serving piscine produce that will endure changing fashions.
When it comes to reviewing fish its all about the freshness; the nearer it is to pulsing, the better it will taste.
I went along for Saturday lunch with a couple of pals. The service is slick; water, bread and canapés are delivered swiftly and unobtrusively. The ambience is conspiratorial; we are all here because we know we are onto a good thing. A horseshoe crustacean bar is perfect for supping fizz and shucking an oyster or two, it’s like the bar in the Cafe Royal pub, but posher.
We had the choice of a good value lunch time menu of two courses for £14.95 or the a la carte which contains all the fish and shellfish options. I was hankering for langoustines served in wild garlic butter (£18.50) and my two friends both chose grilled scallops in the half shell with chorizo (£ 17.95).
The langoustines were halved to minimise fuss and there was nice pile heaped on my plate. I would give them eight out of ten. Unfortunately I had tasted some ‘cooked in front of me’ langoustine from Stuart Muir at Harvey Nichols earlier that week which were moister and juicier; I couldn’t help comparing. I had ordered chips on the side which were actually pommes frites but a nice enough accompaniment. My friends’ scallops were beautifully golden and the chorizo was superb. We washed the whole lot down with an excellent bottle of Prosecco that had a clean slivery sheen and was dry and full of bubbles.
Dessert was simple, coffee and Florentines. Made with honey, nuts, fruit and seeds these round delicacies were a deliciously sweet finish to our lunch.
Ondine has been a hit with diners and critics alike since it opened a year ago and Roy Brett moved from the Dakota hotel to Edinburgh city centre. Bite quite simply concurs that it is a welcome addition to Edinburgh’s dining scene.
Ondine Restaurant
2 George IV Bridge,
Edinburgh,
EH1 1AD
-0131 226 1888
- enquiries@ondinerestaurant.co.uk
-www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk
OPENING TIMES
12 noon – 10pm everyday
1 comments:
Now Mrs Bite, I read this article with interest and I think you have your proportions of 'paid for out your own pocket' completely wrong. As a proprietor of a restaurant who you have reviewed we paid for you, as have many many others I know. We expect a glowing review as we have given you food free. Your writers also need to keep their mouths shut as they frequently tell people around town they 'eat for free' in return for a good review. I look forward with interest whether you allow this comment to stand and if you are brave enough to admit you don't pay for your meals, especially at places like Centotre, Scottish Cafe etc. I think your magazine is bias and considering you are a food magazine, 4 reviews a month doesn't amount to that much now does it?
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