Friday, 31 October 2008

Casa Mingo Asturian Cider House, Madrid, October 2008

Mingo is a must.

Casa Mingo, Paseo De La Florida 34, 28008 Madrid, Spain – 0034 915 477 918

Casa Mingo is a no-frills Asturian cider house in the west of the city. It resembles a barn and is filled with old tables and chairs whilst the walls are lined with hundreds of dusty ‘sidre’ bottles. Popular with Madrileños and tourists alike it is famous for cider, spit-roast chicken, chorizo and (I quote the Time Out Guide), “nose-bending” cheese.

Service is snappy and efficient but very friendly. We order a bottle of cider and it is presented and poured immediately; lime coloured, tart and thirst quenching it goes down a treat. Our food orders follow courtesy of the fleet footed waiters; spit roasted chicken to share (9.50 euros), a tray of salad (5.50 euros) and rustic, unprocessed ‘pan complêt’. The chicken is hissing and sizzling as we tear it apart with our hands and devour the tasty flesh. The skin is well done, chewy, salty and utterly delicious. Around us, chorizos, plates of Manchego cheese and desserts make their way to tables of canoodling couples, respectable, well-heeled Madrileños, families, business associates and groups of girls. Everyone is tucking in unashamedly and no-one seems to give a fig about salt, sugar, fat content, alcohol intake or indeed tobacco (you do have to go outside to smoke though).

For dessert we order another Asturian speciality, a plate of the ‘nose-bending’ Cabrales cheese. They don’t do ‘dinky’ here and a plate heaving with stinky cheese is slammed down. It is a hard, blue-veined cheese that is matured in the limestone caves of the Asturian coastline and according to Culinaria Spain was described by the author Benito Pérez Galdó as having a “pestilent aroma”. We manage half a plate along with another bottle of cider and our mouths tingle.

The whole meal for two people cost about £25 which is an absolute bargain. If you find yourself in Madrid Casa Mingo is a must.


Opening Hours


Daily 11am-12pm

Sunday, 19 October 2008

October 18th - Gusto - All in great taste.

GUSTO IS A STUNNINGLY STYLISH ESTABLISHMENT INSPIRED BY THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RISTORANTE OF THE 1950S. IT MANAGES TO BE BOTH GLAMOROUS AND FAMILY FRIENDLY. I VISITED ON A SATURDAY EVENING AND WAS GLAD I ‘MADE AN EFFORT’. GUSTO IS WELL-DRESSED AND COSMOPOLITAN SO YOU CAN WEAR YOUR BEST GEAR. IT EXUDES THE CLASS THAT MANY GEORGE STREET VENUES MERELY ASPIRE TO HAVING. IT’S POPULAR TOO; THIS EVENING'S PARTYING GROUPS MIXED EASILY WITH COUPLES AND FAMILIES AND THE ROOM WAS JUMPING.

We were seated in a comfortable booth and I ordered a Figatini, crushed figs and apple shaken with Ketel One vodka and green apple schnapps (£5.95). Chilled, fruity and not too sweet, it was the perfect partner for perusing the menu.

To start, I decided on the fritto misto (£tbc). Courgette sticks, clenched, meaty tiger prawns, calamari pieces and sea salty white bait were dusted with a light tempura. Seasoning, a wedge of lemon and garlic mayo completed this sensational dish. My partner meanwhile swooned over her vibrant salad of apple, gorgonzola, walnut, baby gem and spinach (£4.95). The starters were pronounced faultless and we agreed that either would make an excellent, light lunch.

My main course was hunter’s stew (£13.75). Chunks of tender lamb mixed with big, meaty ceps in a rich tomato-based sauce. It was accompanied by fresh, home-made golden gnocchi, which I used to chase the rich, unctuous sauce around my plate. The soft, floury texture of the potato pasta complemented the yielding lamb. My partner had slices of suckling pig with roast garlic mash and apple sauce (£14.95). The pork was declared ‘lovely’ and I can vouch for the creamy, buttery, perfect consistency of the mash, which sat in a pool of intensely-flavoured gravy. The Tuscan influence was evident in these rustic, flavourful peasant dishes.

We couldn’t manage dessert but the Italian cheeseboard is still beckoning and I plan to return for it ASAP. We drank a bottle of Est!Est! Est! di Montefiascone, which is a slightly voluptuous white wine with peach and citrus notes. It also brings us neatly to the fact that Gusto is the former Est Est Est re-branded but much more suave.




OPENING HOURS:

Everyday 'til late.




Gusto

135 George St
Edinburgh, EH2 4JS
0131 225 2555