GUSTO IS A STUNNINGLY STYLISH ESTABLISHMENT INSPIRED BY THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RISTORANTE OF THE 1950S. IT MANAGES TO BE BOTH GLAMOROUS AND FAMILY FRIENDLY. I VISITED ON A SATURDAY EVENING AND WAS GLAD I ‘MADE AN EFFORT’. GUSTO IS WELL-DRESSED AND COSMOPOLITAN SO YOU CAN WEAR YOUR BEST GEAR. IT EXUDES THE CLASS THAT MANY GEORGE STREET VENUES MERELY ASPIRE TO HAVING. IT’S POPULAR TOO; THIS EVENING'S PARTYING GROUPS MIXED EASILY WITH COUPLES AND FAMILIES AND THE ROOM WAS JUMPING.
We were seated in a comfortable booth and I ordered a Figatini, crushed figs and apple shaken with Ketel One vodka and green apple schnapps (£5.95). Chilled, fruity and not too sweet, it was the perfect partner for perusing the menu.
To start, I decided on the fritto misto (£tbc). Courgette sticks, clenched, meaty tiger prawns, calamari pieces and sea salty white bait were dusted with a light tempura. Seasoning, a wedge of lemon and garlic mayo completed this sensational dish. My partner meanwhile swooned over her vibrant salad of apple, gorgonzola, walnut, baby gem and spinach (£4.95). The starters were pronounced faultless and we agreed that either would make an excellent, light lunch.
My main course was hunter’s stew (£13.75). Chunks of tender lamb mixed with big, meaty ceps in a rich tomato-based sauce. It was accompanied by fresh, home-made golden gnocchi, which I used to chase the rich, unctuous sauce around my plate. The soft, floury texture of the potato pasta complemented the yielding lamb. My partner had slices of suckling pig with roast garlic mash and apple sauce (£14.95). The pork was declared ‘lovely’ and I can vouch for the creamy, buttery, perfect consistency of the mash, which sat in a pool of intensely-flavoured gravy. The Tuscan influence was evident in these rustic, flavourful peasant dishes.
We couldn’t manage dessert but the Italian cheeseboard is still beckoning and I plan to return for it ASAP. We drank a bottle of Est!Est! Est! di Montefiascone, which is a slightly voluptuous white wine with peach and citrus notes. It also brings us neatly to the fact that Gusto is the former Est Est Est re-branded but much more suave.
OPENING HOURS:
Everyday 'til late.
Gusto
135 George St
Edinburgh, EH2 4JS
0131 225 2555
Sunday, 19 October 2008
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