Sushiya/19 Dalry Road, Edinburgh, EH11 2BQ – 0131 313 3222
STEVEN BERKOFF WAS ON THE BBC THIS MORNING TALKING ABOUT ‘THE THEATRE OF FOOD’. FOOD IS NOT JUST ABOUT TASTE, HE SAID, BUT ABOUT PLACE, PRESENTATION AND SERVICE. I RECALLED A ROOFTOP IN MARAKESH WHERE, IN THE DARKNESS, I HAD THE UNPLEASANT EXPERINCE OF EATING A WHOLE CHILLI BUT AT THE SAME TIME THE MEAL IS ONE OF THE MOST MEMORABLE I HAVE EVER HADDUE TO THE SETTING; I ALSO THOUGHT OF SUSHIYA WHERE I HAD BEEN THE NIGHT BEFORE.
Sushi is a very theatrical food; full of colour, taste, texture, skill and ritual. Dalry on a dreich Wednesday may bear little resemblance to Tokyo City but inside this ultra utilitarian ‘sushi shop’ the click of chopsticks, general chatter and platters or eye catching food give an authentic sense of place.
We started with tempura chicken wings for me and beef skewers with yakimono sauce for my partner. My wings were encased in a fan of light golden, crispy batter that was fresh and tasty with not a hint of grease. The skewers were very tasty and flavoursome too. Next, my partner had scallop sashimi. He loved the slices of creamy, glistening flesh which were presented with thick pea green wasabi paste and a rosette of galangal. It was all super fresh and very exciting on the palate. I had my ultimate fast food, tight little rolls of sticky rice, sumptuous salmon, creamy avocado and chewy seaweed. Delicious! We then shared a large seaweed cone of rice and strong, smoky eel. It could have done with a little more eel but we were satisfied and happy.
The meal was all washed down with a glass of wine and a bottle of Asahi and the total bill was £26. The price of a couple of theatre tickets!
OPENING HOURS:
Sun-Thurs 12pm-2pm & 5pm-10.30pm
Fri & Sat ‘til 11pm
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